The trip home: Part I - California and Nevada

The return cross-country trip was filled with so many adventures, incredible experiences, and spectacular moments that I fear it would take weeks, if not months, to write a blog. So, I'll select just a few highlights and photos as a sample of this wonderful trip home.

My last night in Pacific Grove - an amazing sunset to end an amazing summer.
 
My route home was certainly not the most direct!  I started by heading north up Highway 1 through Santa Cruz then a quick stop to view the lighthouse at Pigeon Point.

The lighthouse at Pigeon Point.  The old disused houses for the keepers are now a youth hostel.

At San Gregorio I bid farewell to the ocean and turned inland.  This summer I loved re-connecting my spirit to the ocean and know I will greatly miss the sea.  I turned east and followed Highway 84 up and over the hills then crossed over the Dumbarton Bridge near the head of San Fransisco Bay.  I followed a twisty route still trying to avoid Interstate Freeways climbing up through Niles Canyon Road to reach Livermore.

Beautiful sun burnt brown hills and green oak trees near Livermore.

There was no now avoiding Freeways so I joined Interstate 205 passing through Tracy then at Manteca I made a turn north up Interstate 5 to Stocktown.  I soon rejoined my favorite type of road; a narrow, twisting, county highway heading for the mountains.  In this case it was Highway 4 passing through the rich agricultural farmlands of the San Joaquin Valley before an interesting stop at Farmington where I meet some wonderful folks who knew my friends Bob and Bill.  

 The old store at Farmington.  Where I meet some wonderful new friends.

 

 My favorite kind of road - heading towards Angles Camp up Highway 4.

Then on into the mineral rich foothills passing Copperopolis (once home to a massive copper mine) before stopping for the night at a cheap motel in the old gold mining town of Angels Camp.  This town was the setting for the  famous short story written in 1865 by Mark Twain called "The Celebrated Jumping Frog of Calaveras Country" .  The sidewalk of the main street has a hall of fame in a style similar to the Hollywood Walk of Fame Stars - only this one is to recognize the champion from the annual frog jumping festival.

Main Street Angels Camp.

Sidewalk "Frog of Fame" marker for the one time world record holder

"Johnny Jumper" 20 feet, 3 inches (since beaten by "Rosie the Ribeter" with 21’ 53/4”).

The next morning I carried on following beautiful Highway 4 gradually climbing as I passed through a series of interesting old mining towns that now seem to survive on tourists: Murphy's, Avery, and Dorrington.  I loved driving through the forested Sierra Nevada mountains before finally cresting the range at Ebberts Pass at 8,730 feet above sea level.

Cabin and alpine lake near the summit of Ebberts Pass.

A very steep descent down the eastern side before climbing up and over Monitor Pass at 8,314 feet.  I now left California (briefly) and headed into Nevada as I skirted Topaz Lake and drove through Wellington.  This Wellington being considerable smaller than capital city of the same name in New Zealand.

Old one-room school house in Wellington, Nevada.

Back into California and a visit to the Forest Service ranger station in Bridgeport to get directions to a near by hot spring I had read about.  This was an amazing place for a soak as there were several hot springs with fabulous views of the Sierra Nevada mountains.

Beautiful hot springs near Bridgeport, CA.

A drive past spectacular Mono Lake before cutting across Highway 120 arriving into the tiny town of Benton Hot Springs right on dusk.  For $40 I got a campsite with my own hot mineral pool looking out to the White Mountain Range and Boundary Peak - the highest point of Nevada.  To say this was an incredible experience is not adequate description for a night spent soaking in my own private hot tub alternated with reading by moonlight beside my campfire.  I was even up early and back into the pool to watch the sunrise.

Sunset from inside my own hot pool.  Boundary Peak on the left.

Now my adventure got a little more adventurous than I planned.  I was aiming to add Nevada to my list of the 50 US state highpoints climbed - but my vehicle had other ideas. Although, in hindsight I can't complain as my trusty 2000 Ford Windstar van with 140,000 miles on it has taken me some incredible places over the years.  I reluctantly left the hot pools of Benton and headed up a rough (in hindsight way too rough) dirt road towards an old mining outpost high on the slopes of Boundary Peak.  

 The old mining camp with Boundary Peak towering above on the far left.

Having made the van work very hard to get there I was dismayed to discover transmission fluid pouring out of the engine so I beat a hasty retreat to the nearest town of Bishop.  There the mechanical diagnosis was not good with reports of a broken transmission seal, a $2,000 estimated repair bill, and a 85% chance of the van getting me back to Minnesota.  A stressful decision making process taking several hours as I deliberated options.  I settled on still trying to reach Boundary Peak by a much longer eastern approach from near the small town of Dyer.  

 A lonely highway near Dyer, Nevada.

I drove up the access road as far as I felt comfortable taking the van, pitched my tend beside the pond of an old dam, and set my watch alarm for a very early start.

I was up and away before first light riding my mountain bike up the steep access road that I felt was beyond the van in its damaged state.  Riding two miles uphill at 8,500 feet following a rocky, steep, heavily rutted trail with only the narrow beam of my headlamp for illumination was a pretty exciting start to the day.  Sunrise arrived quickly with my goal - the summit of Boundary Peak, brilliantly illuminated.

 

Sunrise arrived as I was mountain biking up the access road to the Boundary Peak trail head.   

The summit is the peak in the center.

The road ended at the head of Trail Canyon and the hiking route then began.  Although hiking trail is being too kind as this was essentially an exercise in route finding heading up through the thickets of willows, then across the knee-high sage in the center of a broad valley, then picking the path of least resistance up ever steepening rock scree slopes.  Finally, after some very sketchy rock climbing moves I reached the ridge at 12,000 feet and then had another long-slog with significant drop-offs on either side to reach the highpoint at 13,140 feet.

Mile after mile of fairly desperate climbing up increasingly steep slopes of rock scree.

Shortly after 1pm I reached the summit - the 46th US state I've highpointed.

On top of Nevada - at 13,140 feet above sea level.

I took a much longer (and safer) route down but developed massive blisters, ran out of food and water, and really suffered from the over 100 degree heat in the valley.  The highlight was seeing a herd of wild horses and walking down through a grove of bristlecone pine trees (Pinus longaeva), the oldest living trees in the world.  Eventually I reached my bike and had a thrilling decent back down the access road to reach the van arriving some 12 hours after leaving, feeling thrashed, but thrilled at having made the summit and having enjoyed a tough hike in a very remote mountain range.

I drove for an hour to reach the town of Tonopah where a $28 night motel room after an equally cheap meal at a local casino did much to restore me.  The next morning it was hot; quickly reaching 104 degrees.  The only thing more concerning was the ever-increasingly number of times that the transmission was slipping.  I was stopping fairly frequently to pour in transmission fluid as I was leaving a steady stream of it along the sun baked roads.  The old town of Goldfield providing an interesting stop for me to stretch my legs and the van transmission to cool. While 440 people still live here the "ghost city" is a shadow of its former glory when it was home to over 30,000 citizens.  Most of the old buildings remain, some well preserved by the dry desert climate and others by people who share my belief that these old treasures are worth saving.

Back on the road to pass the Nevada Test Range - once the site of nuclear explosions and still heavily military including the (in)famous Area 51.  As I approached Las Vegas I was forced to accept the inevitable - the van was dying and would not get me home.  After much appreciated advice from Terry and then Jane the decision was made - I would be buying a car in Vegas.  Rolling into North Las Vegas  I found the first street with numerous car dealers and then proceeded to look and test drive several.  It soon became clear that there was not much difference in price between a "better" used car and a new model.  So, after just 5 hours I signed the final paper work to trade in what remained of the van and collected the keys to my new 2010 Toyota Rav4.  I unloaded the contents of the well-packed van, now looking somewhat forlorn with a spreading pool of transmission fluid, loaded up the Toyota, and headed to a nearby casino hotel for much needed sleep.

"Thanks - you served me well" - my last look at my trusty old Ford Windstar van.

"Let the adventures begin" - my new Toyota Rav4.

I left Las Vegas late on Saturday morning after a wonderful sleep and an insanely huge breakfast thanks to an all-you-can-eat buffet in the casino.  I headed to Boulder City and then into Boulder Canyon, and over Boulder Dam.  Although the dam is now known as the Hoover Dam.  Given the fact it was now a toastie 114 F degree (46 Celsius) I decided to stop for a tour and to enjoy the air-conditioned museum.

Temperature in the shade at the Hoover Dam.

Hoover Dam.

Everything about this structure is impressive.  The tour started with an interesting movie, was followed by a long elevator ride to the base of the dam to view the powerhouse, and concluded with a hike along the sidewalk across the crest.  Inside were surprises including beautiful art deco inspired designs and art work.  Yet, it is the sheer scale of the dam which leaves the strongest impression.  To learn more about the Hoover Dam, click here.

View from the crest of Hoover Dam to the powerhouse below, the Colorado River, and the soon-to-be-completed $114 million Mike O'Callaghan - Pat Tillman Memorial Bridge.

 The turbines of one of the two generating stations at the base of Hoover Dam.

The water intakes for the power station with a greatly reduced Lake Mead behind.

I drove across the dam and at the mid-point passed out of Nevada and into Arizona.  I'll carry on with that chapter of the story home in the next blog post.

US Grand Prix in Monterey

An interesting event to report on with this blog posting as yesterday I went to the Red Bull U.S. Motor Cycle Grand Prix held at Mazda Raceway Laguna Seca.

 

The Road Racing World Championship Grand Prix is the premier championship of motorcycle road racing. The Championship is currently divided into three distinct classes reflecting three different types and sizes of engines: 125cc, 250cc, and MotoGP. The first two are held with two-stroke and the last with four-stroke engines. But because California has very strict emission laws which ban two-stoke motorcycles the race here is limited to the Moto GP class.  This was one of 18 stops on the world circuit with this race also serving as the US Grand Prix.

Grand Prix motorcycles are purpose-built racing machines that are neither available for purchase by the general public nor can be ridden legally on public roads. They are also ridiculous loud and super fast. The highest speed for a MotoGP motorcycle is 349.288 km/h (217.037 mph), set by Dani Pedrosa riding a Repsol Honda RC212V 800cc.

Moto GP bike of Jorge Lorenzo.

I joined 52,000 others at Mazda Raceway Laguna Seca which is a paved road racing track used for both auto racing and motorcycle racing located on the hills just outside Monterey.  I gathered with thousands of others making use of the free parking at the nearby California State University Monterey Bay  for a free bus ride to the race circuit.  The racetrack is 2.238 miles (3.602 km) in length with a 300 foot (91 m) elevation change. It has eleven turns, including the famous "Corkscrew" at Turns 8 and 8A. This two corner combination is considered one of the motorsport world's most challenging turns, due to the drop in elevation as well as its blind crest and apex on the uphill approach.

As I arrived the morning practice rounds were just finishing under slightly foggy and cloudy skies.  The noise and speed of the bikes as they passed down the straightaway is incredible.   

 Before the main event I had lots of time to wander along miles of displays of motorcycles and every type of accessory I could have ever imagined (and quite a few I would have never imagined).  Some neat displays to watch including some impressive trick riding.

  Little less front brake!  Actually an amazing display of trick riding.

Then under bright, hot, sunny skiesI took my place on the hill with thousands of other for the start of the main event.

Caps off for the singing of the national anthem, a low level fly-by a US Airforce Jet, and then the singing of the collective thousands of hoursepower as the bikes took off towards the first corner.

 And we are off - first corner of the 2010 US Moto GP Grand Prix.

I then moved to watch several laps with the huge crowds at the (in)famous corkscrew corner.

Crowds at the corkscrew.

 

Then a walk around the circuit to see the action from various vantage points.

In the right spot to see a crash - note the dust and the rider coming to a stop against the barriers.

Before this event I knew nothing about this form of motor sport.  Apparently the big news was that just 7 weeks earlier, the reining world champion Valentino Rossi from Italy broke his leg.  Expected to be out for the season he amazingly came back the week before at the race in German.  Much to everyone's delight at Lguna Seca he started 6th and then worked his way to a 3rd place finish.  The guy leading the early stages of the race, Dani Pedrosa from Spain, crashed out and his fellow country man Jorge Lorenzo had a fairly easy time winning.  Second place was won by Casey Stoner (Australia) riding a Ducati.

 Finishing order of riders (by their numbers) as the Spanish national anthem plays for the winner.

 

Top three winners on the podium - photo of the giant video monitor atop the scoring pylon.

All and all it was an incredible and really fun day.  Check out this one minute video of highlights from the race at this link.  These guys are true athletes and the machines they ride are nothing short of phenomenal. The acceleration is impossible to describe as is the noise.  I can now see why Rossi is considered a huge hero in Europe and why he is one of the worlds most highly paid sports stars (can you imagine riding a bike that long, that fast, over a twisty and hilly course with a still healing broken leg!). 

							On the way out I got to walk across the track and have my photo taken beneath the start/finish straight.  But don't worry, I won't soon be buying a motor bike.  I'll keep to mountain climbing - its safer.

A house of mystery in San Jose

This past weekend we traveled 90 minutes north to San Jose to visit a friend of Jane's. She was attending a conference and had an afternoon free. By coincidence, we all went to tour an incredible house that has interesting links to a famous family from New Haven, Connecticut.

The Winchester Mystery House is a mansion that was under construction continuously for 38 years. It once was the personal residence of Sarah Winchester, the widow of gun magnate William W. Winchester. The mansion is renowned for its size and utter lack of any master building plan. Under Sarah Winchester's personal and direct day-to-day guidance, its "from-the-ground-up" construction proceeded around-the-clock, without interruption, from 1884 until her death on September 5, 1922, at which time work immediately ceased. The cost for such constant building has been estimated at about US $5.5 million (this would be equivalent to almost $70 million in 2008 dollars).

An aerial view of the massive Winchester House. Click on the photo to see it in a larger size.

 
Here is a little background edited from the website of the house that explains who built the house and why.

Sarah Lockwood Pardee was born in 1840, the daughter of Leonard Pardee and Sarah Burns, a carriage manufacturer in New Haven, Connecticut.  Known as the "Belle of New Haven," Sarah enjoyed all the advantages of a cultured upbringing, including an education at the best private schools. She spoke four languages and played piano beautifully.  In 1862, Sarah married William Wirt Winchester, son of Oliver Fisher Winchester, owner of the company that made the famous Winchester repeating rifle. 

 

The couple's life together was happy, and they moved in the best New England society. However, in 1866, disaster struck when their infant daughter, Annie, died of then mysterious childhood disease. Mrs. Winchester fell into a deep depression from which she never fully recovered.  Fifteen years later, in March 1881, her husband's premature death from tuberculosis added to Mrs. Winchester's distress.  Deeply saddened by the deaths of her daughter Annie in 1866, and her young husband in 1881, and seeking solace, Winchester consulted a medium on the advice of a psychic.  According to popular history, the medium told Winchester that she believed there to be a curse upon the Winchester family because the guns they made had taken so many lives.   The psychic told Winchester that "thousands of people have died because of it and their spirits are now seeking deep vengeance." Although this is disputed, popular belief holds that the Boston Medium told Winchester that she had to leave her home in New Haven and travel west, where she must "build a home for yourself and for the spirits who have fallen from this terrible weapon, too. You must never stop building the house. If you continue building, you will live forever. But if you stop, then you will die."

Winchester inherited more than $20.5 million upon her husband's death. She also received nearly 50 percent ownership of the Winchester Repeating Arms Company, giving her an income of roughly $1,000 per day, none of which was taxable until 1913. This amount is roughly equivalent to about $22,000 a day in 2010.  All of this gave her a tremendous amount of wealth to fund construction.


Mrs. Winchester packed her bags and left Connecticut to visit a niece who lived in Menlo Park, California. While there she discovered the perfect spot for her new home in the Santa Clara Valley. In 1884 she purchased an unfinished farm house just three miles west of San Jose. She immediately hired carpenters to work in shifts around the clock. By the turn of the century the eight-room house had grown into a seven-story mansion.

Old postcard view of the mansion prior to the 1906 earthquake.

 
The house was badly damaged by the 1906 San Francisco earthquake and subsequent repairs removed the top three stories leaving it as it is today with only four stories. After 38 years of non-stop, unrelenting construction the mansion had grown to such a size to ramble over six acres. The house contained 160 rooms, including 40 bedrooms and 2 ballrooms, one completed and one under construction, 13 bathrooms, and 6 kitchens. There were over 2,000 doors, 10,000 windows, 47 stairways, 47 fireplaces linked to 17 chimneys. Several of the doors and stairways lead nowhere as the house lacked a coordinate plan. Before the availability of elevators, special "easy riser" stairways were installed to allow Winchester access to every part of the mansion to accommodate her severe arthritis. Roughly 20,500 gallons (76,000 liters) of paint were required to paint the house. Due to the sheer size of the house, by the time every section of the house was painted, the workers had to start repainting again. The house also has many conveniences that were rarely found at the time of its construction, including steam and forced-air heating, modern indoor toilets and plumbing, push-button gas lights, a hot shower from indoor plumbing and even three elevators.

Mrs. Winchester's elegant Grand Ballroom is built almost entirely without nails. It cost over $9,000 to complete at a time when an entire house could be built for less than $1,000.  The silver chandelier is from Germany, and the walls and parquet floor are made of six hardwoods – mahogany, teak, maple, rosewood, oak, and white ash. The most curious element of the Grand Ballroom are the two leaded stained glass windows, each inscribed with a quote from Shakespeare. The first, "Wide unclasp the table of their thoughts," is from Troilus and Cressida (IV:5:60). The lines are spoken by Ulysses, and refer to Cressida's sometimes flirting nature. The second, "These same thoughts people this little world," is from Richard II (V:5:9). The imprisoned Richard means that his thoughts people the small world of his confinement. Nobody knows for certain what these lines meant to Mrs. Winchester. While they apparently held some special meaning for Mrs. Winchester, their significance remains a mystery today. Ironically, the ballroom was probably never used to hold a ball. According to one story, Mrs. Winchester once heard that a celebrated orchestra was performing in San Francisco. She invited the musicians to play at her home, but scheduling conflicts prevented the visit. In any case, Mrs. Winchester sealed off the ballroom after the earthquake of 1906.

 
While she sometimes drew up simple sketches of the building ideas, there were never any blueprints….or building inspectors. In the morning, she would meet with John Hansen, her dutiful foreman, and go over new changes and additions. During the early years of construction, this resulted in some awkward and impractical concepts such as columns being installed upside down. John Hansen stayed with Mrs. Winchester for many years, redoing scores of rooms, remodeling them one week and tearing them apart the next. This resulted in many features being dismantled, built around, or sealed over. Some rooms were remodeled many times. It is estimated that 500 rooms to 600 rooms were built, but because so many were redone, only 160 remain. This naturally resulted in some peculiar effects, such as stairs that lead to the ceiling, doors that go nowhere and that open onto walls, and chimneys that stop just short of the roof!

 

The only known photo of Sarah Winchester.  Insistent on privacy, this photo was reported to have been taken by a gardener hiding in the bushes.


Mrs. Winchester passed away in her sleep from heart failure on September 5, 1922. At the time of her death, all work abruptly stopped. Carpenters even left nails half driven when they learned of Mrs. Winchester's death. She was buried at the Evergreen Cemetery in New Haven, Connecticut beside her beloved husband. According to the provisions of her will, Mrs. Winchester's personal property, including the furnishings, household goods, pictures, jewelry, and papers were left to her niece, Mrs. Marian Merriman Marriott, who promptly had the furnishings auctioned off. It is said to have required six trucks working six weeks to cart the furnishings away. The mansion and farm were not mentioned specifically in the will. They became part of Mrs. Winchester's estate and were sold by her trustees, the Union Trust Company of San Francisco. Sarah Winchester made no mention in her will of the mansion, and appraisers considered the house worthless, probably due to the un-repaired earthquake damage as well as the impractical nature of its design. It was sold at auction to a local investor for $135,000 and in February 1923, five months after Mrs. Winchester's death, the house opened to the public. Today the home is owned by Winchester Investments and it retains unique touches that reflect Winchester's beliefs and her reported preoccupation with warding off malevolent spirits. These spirits are said to have directly inspired her as to the way the house should be built. The number thirteen and spider web motifs, which had some sort of spiritual meaning to her, reappear around the house. For example, an expensive imported chandelier that originally had 12 candle-holders was altered to accommodate 13 candles, wall clothes hooks are in multiples of 13, and a spider web-patterned stained glass window contains 13 colored stones. The sink's drain covers also have 13 holes.

  The tour was fascinating, bizarre, and an incredible wander through a unique monument to mental illness. The tour guide warned people not to stray from the group or they could be lost for hours. We walked well over a mile through twisting hallways, made even more intriguing by secret doors and passageways in the walls. We were told that Mrs. Winchester traveled through her house in a roundabout fashion, supposedly to confuse any mischievous ghosts that might be following her. I was left with the impression that she was certainly a very rich but also very troubled woman. Her legacy is a house unlike any ever built, or likely ever to be built in the future. If you are ever in San Jose, I highly recommend a visit and tour of the Winchester Mystery House.