The best run - ever!

I consider myself lucky to have lived in some pretty amazing places. And as an occasional runner I have run in some pretty amazing places. I say occasional runner as I now tend to run only when the mood takes – or start training when a big race I’ve committed to looms on the horizon. My favorite places to run have moved as I moved through New Zealand and the US. Growing up in Moncks Bay near Christchurch I loved my local run along Sumner Beach as well as the amazing trail out to Boulder Bay. Moving to Wellington after college my favorite jaunt was up to the Akatarawa Dam. Then following my move to the United States; firstly Oregon, where a lap around Trillium Lake under the shadow of Mt Hood was incredible; then in Illinois I enjoyed running along the brick-paved sidewalks through the tree-lined avenues of Urbana; and most recently, I’ve loved my run across the University of Minnesota farm fields and through the State Fairgrounds in St. Paul. But I think they all pail in comparison terms of amazing scenery from the run I did last Saturday.


I arrived into Zermatt just before 5pm. This is a car free town so you park in huge parking areas in the town of Täsch and either take the train or slightly cheaper, enterprising locals who have a permit to drive up the road to Zermatt and seen to supplement their regular income with this part-time taxi gig. I opted for the latter option. Once in Zermatt I headed straight to the Tourist Information Center where I asked about rooms for the night. It appears that many European towns and cities have all their hotels, motels, B&B, and other accommodation options liked into a central web-based data system so the helpful folks at the Tourist Center get up-to-the minute information of what is available. I didn’t have reservations and timed my arrival for the opening night of the Zermatt International Chamber Music Festival (apparently quite famous) but lucked out and found a room for a reasonable rate in the Alpina Hotel – classically Swiss.

I then went to the Alpine Center – where one goes to hire a guide (ski in winter and climbing in summer). You usually need to book months in advance for a climb of the two most famous peaks around Zermatt, Monte Rosa and the Matterhorn. I put myself on the waiting list for both although stated that Monte Rosa first would be my preference as I was not sure of how my rock climbing ability would measure up to the Matterhorn. Being Saturday, I was told it would probably be Thursday or Friday before a guide was available but I should check in each morning at 10:30 in the unlikely event of cancellations.

So, a place to stay and climbing plans taken care of, I set off for a run. I was hoping to get to about 1,800 meters (6,000 feet) in elevation to begin the process of acclimatizing to the higher altitudes I would be find if, and when, I got to go climbing. Zermatt is at 1,600 meters (5,200 feet). I headed up the valley passing beyond the last shops, then the last houses, rounded a corner, and there she was – the Matterhorn.

My first view of the Matterhorn.

The trail gained elevation quite steeply and there were many folks coming down from a day of hiking. At various points along the trail were benches to rest that all had “Great to see you” carved into them in the four local languages (English, Germany, French, and Italian).

The trail was great, my legs and lungs feeling strong, and the views, simply incredible so I carried on. Eventually at about 2,000 meters (6,750 feet) I came to a small village called Zmutt with traditional chalets tucked into the hillside. What an idyllic if not isolated place to live.

The view back down the valley over the ski area was to the distant snow-capped peaks.

And the view up the valley – well it is unique and breath-taking.

It was now getting close to dusk and I was prepared to turn around and retrace my steep when I saw a sign pointing along a different trail that also indicated it would get me back to Zermatt.

Somewhat surprisingly the trail continued to rise, not head down the valley as I had hoped. I picked up the pace a little and continued on. Then, high on a bluff at what was essentially the junction of two valleys I had to stop. The sun was setting on the Matterhorn and the snowy peaks of the Monte Rosa Massif. The bells of the cows grazing in the fields were making their melodic symphony and just when you thought it could not get any more Switzerland, a Swiss horn started up from another small village far below.

Sunset of the Monte Rosa Massif.

Sunset on the Matterhorn.

Suffice to say that I will treasure that moment forever (actually it stretched into 20 minutes as I sat transfixed at the scene). My dreams of a trip exploring Europe beginning with a visit to the Alps were all realized in this magnificent place and time– I wish I could have shared it with you.

Having watched the sun dust the mountains in a variety of brilliant colors it was now very suddenly getting quite dark. On a whim I had thrown my small headlight in my pocket as I left the hotel. I am sure glad I did as without it I would have spent a cold night out on the side of that mountain. The run downhill was great passing through fields of freshly cut hay and even more little farming villages with their houses and barns on stilts to keep the mice out. With the very last rays of light I turned a corner in one of these villages and got one last look at the Matterhorn.

Last light on the Matterhorn.

And as is often found – a cross was located at the edge of the village and behind it the lights of Zermatt. I know I have probable overused the word breathtaking – but is simply what it was for me.

The lights of Zermatt.

This two hour run was pure magic. So, whenever I complain of the stresses of life or I’m caught up in some trivial thing or another - go ahead and remind me of this very special run.