Watching the finish of the Ultra Trail Du Mont Blanc Race.
While these incredible athletes has run around the mountain, my desire was to climb to its summit. Mont Blanc or Monte Bianco (French and Italian, respectively), means white mountain. It is also sometimes known as "La Dame Blanche" (in French, the white lady). It is the highest mountain in France (and a point a few feet lower from the summit on the south ridge is the highest point in Italy) and in Western Europe. It rises 4,810 meters (15,781 feet) above sea level and is ranked 11th in the world in topographic prominence, a measure of the un-interrupted height of a mountain from base to summit. Mt. Elbrus in Russia close to the border with Georgia in the Caucasus Mountain Range is the official highest point of Europe at 5,621 meters (18,442 feet).
If you are a player (or fan) of baseball, then a visit to Cooperstown in New York where the sport was first played is a desired pilgrimage. Similarly, for tennis, to Wimbledon; for rugby, to Rugby School in England; and Springfield, Massachusetts for basketball. For mountaineering, Chamonix and Mt. Blanc are often considered the home of climbing. The peak was first climbed on the 7th August 1786 by two local Chamonix men, Jacques Balmat and Doctor Marie-Gabreil Paccard. After them many started using local men who hiked up into the mountains looking for valuable rock crystals to guide and assist in their bid for the summit. The Compagnie des Guides de Chamonix started to meet this need and is the oldest and largest mountaineer guide service in the world. Check out their webpage for a fascinating look at the history of both the mountain and its famous guiding company.
Of the five guiding companies in town I chose to visit the famous Compagnie des Guides de Chamonix. Their office is right on the main town square. I was asked a lot of questions about my climbing background, skills, and equipment. Then I was told that there might be a guide available and I could probably climb in the coming two or three days. I was instructed to be back at 6:45pm. When I showed up at this time I meet my guide Pierre. He was 50, looked in incredible shape, but said very little other than we were go at 7:45 tomorrow morning.
There are five main routes to the summit of Mt. Blanc. The most common is the “Gouter or Ordinary Route”. This route is often crowded. I wanted to try a more challenging route but especially less busy route. Pierre suggested at this time of year and for a one-day climb the Three Monts Route would be best. This route is also known as The Trois-Mont-Blanc’s (The Three-Mont-Blanc’s) route and the “Traverse of the 4000ers”. The guide book I bought states that the route is “extremely aesthetic but it is both technically and physically much more demanding than the Gouter Route or ordinary route”.
I bought my last minute supplies (ice ax, chocolate, bottled water – but forgetting sun screen which would prove to be a costly and painful mistake) on Sunday evening. I didn’t have the time or inclination to find a camping site so I parked my car in what looked like an unofficial free parking lot beside the school. It was a warm night so I just lay out under the stars in my sleeping bag and bivy bag. Morning brought a great sunrise over the peak I would soon be climbing. A 15 minute walk through town (a little weird to be wearing plastic climbing boots as people walked to work) to the cable car station.
A large number of other people, many climbers similarly fully attired with harness on even were already there. This is part of the attraction of Chamonix for climbing in that you can take the cable car right to the high peaks, climb all day, and return by cable car to the village for a meal in a nice restaurant and bed in a hotel. The cable car is quite some amazing piece of engineering. The Téléphérique de l'Aiguille du Midi, was built in 1955 and held the title of the world's highest cable car for about two decades. It still holds the record as the highest vertical ascent cable car in the world, from 1,035m (3,395 feet) to 3,842m (12, 637 feet). It travels from Chamonix to the top of a mountain peak called the Aiguille du Midi – an altitude gain of over 2,800 m (9,186 feet) – in 20 minutes. An adult ticket from Chamonix is €40 return ($57 US).
I bought my ticket (mountain guides gets to ride free) and we were on the first ride up of the day at 8:10am. We changed cable cars at the mid-station and onto the top station. The Aiguille summit contains a panoramic viewing platform, a café, and a gift shop. From the Aiguille another cable car (summer months only) crosses the Glacier de Geant to Point Helbronner at the Italian side of the Mont Blanc Massif. Point Helbronner is served with a cable car from La Palud, a village near Courmayeur in the Aosta Valley (Italy). The name "Aiguille du Midi" translates literally as "needle of midday". It is so called because the sun sits directly over the peak at noon when viewed from Chamonix.
We followed a footbridge across to the southern summit where a tunnel through the rock leads out onto the north-east ridge. In winter skiers use the same departure point for the famous The Vallée Blanche ski run which is an incredible 22 km (13.7 miles) long.
Following Pierre out onto the ridge.
This next section contains mountaineering terms you may not be familiar with – so click here for a helpful climbing glossary. We put our crampons on, roped up, and headed down the very steep ridge. I’ve climbed a few places with what climbers call exposure (i.e., a big drop). But this was incredible with the sheer drop off on the right down the slopes of Aiguille Du Midi to Chamonix below. The drop on the left wasn’t as long, as a screamer (long fall) would eventually bringing you to a stop on the Vallée Blanche on the French/Italian border. But falling was not an option! So on safely down to the flatter area of the vast Col du Midi. This col (French word for pass) is almost like a huge plateau. Although it was heavily crevassed requiring a few big jumps to get across. Pierre barely slowed his pace as he leapt across but with me walking behind him I was a little anxious at times to keep up and yet be sure I had jumped far enough to clear the drop. As with many crevasses on a huge glacier, you could not see the bottom as it disappeared into a blue then black ice void. Sadly, a few months earlier the former Olympic gold medal winner in snowboarding Karine Ruby, and trainee guide fell in one these epic crevasses with her two clients, she and one of them died.
Crossing crevasses on the Col du Midi.
We passed by the impressive and famous rock climbing area of the South Face of the Aiguille du Midi and after crossing the col began the steep climb up the North Face of Mt. Blanc du Tacul. Some huge seracs in this section and the pace quickened even more so we could pass through this section that is not without objective dangers. Finally we took a very brief break having reached the shoulder at 4,120 meters.
Our first (brief) rest stop - looking back down across the Col towards Aiguille du Midi.
Most parties do not actually go the final few feet to the peak of the two lower mountains passed on the way to the summit, and we carried on this tradition. Having gained all this height we now lost some as we descended the easy slopes towards the Col Maudit (4,035m). The North face of Maudit looked very steep from the Col.
The North face of Maudit.
The guide books grades this as PD+ with a 40 degrees inclination near the top. The step section had fixed ropes although Pierre hollowed at me not to pull on them (apparently, and I didn’t learn this until we were coming back down, he thought there were old and not trust worthy). A mixture of ice and rock made this section a bit sporty. Other parties both came up and down while we were in this section with there being no etiquette for waiting from what I could tell. What with the two old fixed ropes and the ropes of the other parties along with our own it became a confusing and little risky in my mind.
Pierre leading the second of the two pitches of mixed ice/rock on north face of Mt Maudit.
Having reached the Col du Mont Maudit at 4,345 meters we traversed along the south-west slopes to reach yet another vast pass – this time the Col de la Brenva at 4,303.
Heading towards the Col de la Brenva.
I had been asking Pierre could we stop for a break as I was hot and thirsty. In a little while was always the reply. Along the way as he bolted up some sections at a quickened pace the slack in the rope between us would inevitably go and he would shout back to me to keep up, or note that my technique on steep sections was poor. He had previously explained the essence of French climbing style is “economie”. I have been taught and it is drilled in my head to always have your ice axe in the uphill hand so should you fall you can then self-arrest. As we zigzagged up these steep sections he told me in no uncertain terms to stop changing ski pole and ice axe on each turn as it was slowing us down. Finally he steep off the trail and dropped his pack for a snack. The view up the very long slope towards the Mt. Blanc peak was hard to see as I was already getting pretty tired. 
The view of Mt. Blanc from the Col de la Brenva.
But amazing after just one minute of resting he was putting it back on. I had time just to take the photo above and grab a quick sip of water. So I replied; “Pierre, no – I need more break”. He got a little angry and said “OK – one minute more.” I was so flustered by this that I forgot to take off my jacket. It was now late morning on a beautiful sunny day and getting quite hot. Once underway, I immediately knew my error would lead to overheating. I tried to wait as long as I could but after five minutes from our break I told Pierre I needed to stop to remove my jacket. He screamed “No”. I replied forcefully, “Yes – or I will dehydrate”. He stopped and as I removed my jacket he down climbed. He told stood just above me and said “you are a poor climber with bad techniques, you are lazy, and you have no will. If you stop again, we turn around and go down!” Well, I know my climbing technique needs more refinement and I guess I can be lazy, but lacking will – I don’t think so. This made me a little angry. I said nothing, stuffed my jacket in my pack, and said, “let’s go”! Up the long sustained slope of the Mur de la Cote to 4,485 then past the Petits Rochers Rouges at 4,577 and then a group of rocks known as the Petits Mulets at 4,690. My legs were screaming and lungs straining to suck in air at that altitude – but I was going to show this Frenchman that this Kiwi/America climber does NOT lack will.
No more up! The peak of Mt. Blanc.
Then, quite suddenly the steepness eased and the summit ridge of Mt. Blanc was there, we had arrived at 4,808 meters (15, 774 feet). One solo climber joined us having arrived via the Ordinary Route. We topped out at 1:30pm having made the journey in a respectable 5.5 hours. The other climber took a photo of Pierrre and me then as he left, Pierre steeped off the windy and cold ridge for me to “savor the summit”.
Guide Pierre and me on top of Mt. Blanc.
“Savoring the summit” - Mt. Blanc at 4,810 meters (15,781 feet) .
The views were incredible. To the west down to Chamonix Valley almost directly below us, to the distant north the massive mountain of Monte Rosa and nearby the rocky spire of the Matterhorn in Switzerland. To the east the very steep drop off down the Italian side and way off to the south the blue of Lack Geneva. And all around me the famous peaks of the Alps. Even though it was my first time the view was funnily familiar as I’ve seen so many of these remarkable mountains in climbing books and magazines. It was truly a feeling of standing on top of the world.
Of course, having reached the summit we then had the long return. This route is demanding because in both going up and down there are sections of up and down. My legs were incredibly tired on the steep down slopes (I was actually faster on the uphills). I said to Pierre that I was pretty exhausted and was going as fast as I could. “I too am very tired” was the reply. I was sure we would rappel (abseil) the section with fixed lines and the other parties I seen decending had. But no, I was told to lead this section so he could stop a fall and was instructed to go down face first not my preferred down-climbing style.
Looking back up the steep section of Mt. Maudit after our descent.
Our desire to make it back before the last cable car looked in jeopardy. So about halfway back Pierre said that we would stay in the hut. We went all the way back but the last 45 minutes where a short side track took us up a steep slope to where the Cosmiques Hut sits on a rocky ridge.
Refuge des Cosmiques (Cosmique Hut) at 3,613 m.
Sign by the door of Refuge des Cosmiques.
This massive hut holds 145 and has a full time staff over the summer climbing season of cooks, cleaners, and front desk folks. The hut is run by Compagnie des Guides de Chamonix. This is a bit of a racket as camping on the mountain is prohibited so you either do an incredibly hard one day climb or make plans to stay. Climbers have make reservations (weeks if not months in advance). Pierre had called the hut on the night before we left and was told it was full but if there were folks who did not show they would hold the space – luckily there were two empty bunks. The cost was incredibly high in my mind – 50 Euro for me and 35 for Pierre (which I had to pay). In return we were provided with bedding (a small pillow and thick wool blanket) sleeping in tiered bunks three high. Also two meals, firstly dinner (soup with tome cheese – I had never heard of this cheese with a heavy rind but it is delicious), pasta, chicken, and breaded cauliflower. If you wanted water, well they charged you 5 Euro for a liter bottle. I drank two. Breakfast, at 7:30 after a decent sleep, consisted of bread, cereal, juice and a huge soup bowl of very strong coffee.
Dinner time at Refuge des Cosmiques.
We headed back towards the cable car. I felt great on fresh legs and it was a cool but beautiful morning. I joked with Pierre about how he had talked to me and asked if he had a psychology degree as he got a response from me that got a level of performance I wasn’t sure I was capable of making. He was a lot more reasonable and seemed genuinely happy in our success in reaching the summit – the 25th time for him. We reached the cable car and then quickly descended and were back in the village by 9:30. I paid him the money owed and we bid farewell while I went off to find a hotel to crash at for a couple of days.
Back at Aiguille du Midi - looking back up at Mt. Blanc.
I have had a few days now to reflect on this experience. I’ve climbed with several American (and one Ecuadorian) mountain guides and rate them all as excellent. They were kind, compassionate, and always put safety first. Was Pierre rude, mean, and willing to take un-needed risks or was he simply a French mountain guide? He comes from one of the oldest and rigorous guiding organizations in the world so he surely meets every requirement for being qualified and knowledgeable of the local Alps. I believe he quickly summed up my strengths and weaknesses and then altered his attitude to get a desired level of performance from me. Would an American guide do this – I don’t think so but then this is France. I have come to respect and admire Pierre for he got us to the roof of the European Alps and back down safely. And he provided me with not just another country summit (this brings my country highpoint total to 11) but an experience I will always treasure. Merci, merci beaucoup Guide Pierre.
Resting my blistered feet back at a hotel in Chamonix with the peak
that caused the sore feet (Mt. Blanc) seen through the window.
"Mont-Blanc and the Valley of Chamonix, and the sea of ice, and all the wonders of the most wonderful place are above and beyond one's wildest expectation. I cannot imagine anything in nature more stupendous or sublime."Charles Dickens, 1846.
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